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We got underway this morning pretty early. I think it was around 7AM.

We motored out from the beach – there was almost no wind – and around the bend to the north shore of the island. Captain Brad said that we’d see some amazing cliffs – he wasn’t kidding. Along the way we saw tons of whales – female Humpbacks with calves. They were breeching and flapping their fins and tails on the water. I tried really hard to get a picture of them doing it but they do it so quickly and without asking whether I was ready. Fucking whales. Just kidding, whales. I like you and I don’t hold it against you.

Anyhow, here’s a little bit of the photography I managed to get in… if you look hard, you can see them on the surface a little bit. If you can’t see it look harder. I am too drunk to do your work for you.

Speaking of looking harder… I forgot one of the highlights from last night. While we were cooking out on the beach and after the sun had set, First Mate David spotted a satellite going overhead from west to east. It was this little speck of light moving straight across the sky. What do you think it was looking at? It was moving so it isn’t a communications satellite. Or is it? Ruth, what do you think it was? Shri? (That’s me cold calling from my blog.)
Anyway, back to today. We turned the corner around to the north shore and saw the cliffs start to emerge. They were pretty impressive, but Captain Brad told me to hold my horses because there were even more amazing ones around the next corner, past the Leper Colony. So we come up toward the Leper Colony and you know what, it was really pretty nice. Parts of the buildings were turning purple and falling off randomly but otherwise it was lovely. Just kidding. That was a really bad leprosy joke. Should I edit it out? I think I will leave it in.

There were nice neat buildings on the Leper Colony, formally known as Kalaupapa. There is a lighthouse at the end of the peninsula and the colony is very isolated. One of the ways you get there is on a narrow little donkey trail that runs in switchbacks from the top of the cliff down to the little town. It reminds me of another gated community, that of the OC. It would be funny to make a new TV show about a gated community called the LC. Father Damian could be the sort of paternal figure and the kids could be from all over the Pacific and their names could be Miles, Regan, Brianna, and Dash. Their exploits and love triangles would really be something wouldn’t they? You could imagine that Brianna discovered that Miles was cheating on her with Dash when she found pieces of Dash in Miles’ Range Rover. I don’t know. What do you think? Is this worth pursuing?

OK. Enough of that.

Let me tell you that the rumors about the cliffs being astounding are true. Here are some pictures. Some of these cliffs are 3000+ feet high with almost a sheer drop to the ocean. Better yet, there are waterfalls all over these cliffs. The water evidently pours out from the porous and aquifer laden volcanic rock but I am not sure what role these things play in the humongous landslides that created the cliffs. Here are some pictures.

So when we got to this one place, it was clear that this is where we should stop. We were able to pull up to the cliffs pretty close and off to the right was a huge cliff – one of the biggest we’ve seen – and a giant waterfall. What a view!

OK so then these crazy mofos came roaring around the bend in a little Boston Whaler hugging the shore way too closely. The Captain described them to me as local entrepreneurs. I will leave it to you to deduce what kind of entrepreneurial activity takes place on the north shore of Molokai, employs young men, requires high speed watercraft and intimate knowledge of the coastline. So these guys pull up alongside us. They say hey; we say hey. Then they say “nice boat.” I immediately began planning my escape routes. None of them were very promising but I had hope that they would focus on the fit and threatening crew, leaving the plump tourist alone long enough for same to escape. Or I thought, maybe the crew will shield me with their bodies and wisk me into the escape vehicle on board, I would launch off in the egg-shaped pod to be picked up by the Coast Guard who, naturally, would be monitoring the exact frequency of my beacon. Then they said, “gotta light?” Coincidentally, Captain Brad did have a light – a small bic lighter in his pocket so we could say Sure. I was astounded at our good fortune and I was relieved that they didn’t ask something like, “can you hand over your client for our gimp farm?”

Anyhow, they seemed pleased with their trophy and moved off. They were watching us as they used the lighter to light something that smelled terrible, but they seemed to enjoy. I remained on my guard. They eventually left.

We anchored here all day Wednesday and enjoyed lunch and dinner outdoors. Dinner was fantastic – steaks, asparagus, potatos, and a terrific Cab from Woodside CA courtesy of Katie F.! Thanks, Katie. Once again, First Mate David cooked a fantastic meal. A++. After dinner we dropped the canopy and watched stars. No satellites tonight but lots of stars and a very bright moon. The moonlight was so bright that the whole cove and valley was lit beautifully with a silver glow. This is one of the most incredible places I have ever visited.

You should try to get here some time if you are in the area. Tomorrow we are off to Maui and Lanai. Supposedly there is a snorkeling place where the turtles come to get their shells cleaned by the fish. I look forward to that because turtles are fun to swim with. I hope it turns out to be full of turtles. See you tomorrow.

Category : Current Affairs, Stuff, TV, Travel, Worth knowing